How many surfers do we have in the house? I am not a surfer
by the way. Well surfers will truly understand my plight today and non-surfers will
have some key take always on surfing. “Story of my First Surfing Lesson”
Those were the days I just landed in San Diego. About 4
years ago. Since I studied in the east coast, I always fancied west coast.
Grass on the other side is always green. Right? J
On this particular day, I woke up suddenly at 9 45 AM early
morning and realized that I have signed up for a surfing lesson.
My head hurts. Needless to say I was so drunk at this Indian
singles meet up the previous night. I can go over my encounters with alcohol
to gain courage to talk to any girl. Remember I am a naturally shy person.
I failed at building a conversation even with one woman and not even close to
make any friends. My conversation never moves from I work at Sony. San Diego
is a nice place. Good weather and L
that’s it. Okay... Let me not side track. I can talk on my failures of building
conversations in a different speech.
Lesson starts in 30 minutes at La Jolla. I drove
immediately. No water. No coffee or No Breakfast. Please note this point. I got
my wet suit and a long surf board about 9 feet long. By the time I hit the beach
a girl was waiting with their surfing boards. Guess What! She was a woman in
her mid-twenties. I was super happy
looking at this girl. I thought to myself “Forget about last night, I should get
a number from this one”
I did not even get a chance to introduce myself and the
instructor came to the scene. He was thin, young, must be in his mid-twenties.
I was cursing him back of my mind.
He introduced himself and he asked me if I can speak English
with a deviant grin in his face. I nodded.
He already pissed me off. He checked us if we were regular or goofy
footed. Basically he pushes us from back to check what leg we are taking the
lead. If you take left foot that means
you are regular and if you take right foot then you are goofy footed. Fortunately or Unfortunately I am a goofy
footed. He smiles at me by looking at this girl. It took no time for me to
realize that he is making fun of me and hitting on this girl.
He showed us the paddling and popping up move. (Show the movement) I thought I got
that. I was hung over and had no
breakfast and I have not mentioned this point, I was huge then weighing 190
pounds.
You don’t believe me look at this cheeky guy back in 2011. I
want to save my face before those girls. I was trying harder and failing.
Every time I do something, the instructor was giving me
faces and nodding his head showing signs of unhappiness.
Everything was okay until it was not. We got into water.
I leashed the board onto my legs and I am trying to catch
the first wave.
I managed to popup after catching the wave and surf for
about 5 to 10 seconds. It was a moment of pride. I was looking at the girl as
if I am a surfing champion.
Everything was fine until it was not.
That was the only time I caught the wave. After that do you
know how many times I caught the wave? A big zero.
On the way out there the waves seem huge.. Intimidated I
reluctantly paddled along... As I was paddling out there.... and I can feel
like I'm almost vertical.. And all of a sudden. CRASH!!! I drank so much of
salt water. You know what salt water does to your body. It dehydrates you. I am
already dehydrated with the previous night’s alcohol.
Instructor never told me the board should point towards the
shore. I am staying parallel to the shore and crashing again and again. So
called instructor is helping the lady and unknowingly I got dragged inside because of a rip current.
For those of you who does not know what is a rip current, it
is a strong localized narrow current that goes inside the sea.
The shore looked so far away, and soon it was tough just
trying to stay afloat. All the frantic movements and the raced breathing.. I
had no energy. If I let go of the board I
could barely feel the ground. But since the current would pull me back after
each wave I couldn't get my foot on the ground. I was too tired to try to swim
for it. No one was there near me and I could not get onto the board. I gave up.
I was waving at the instructor. Realized he started swimming towards me. He was
very far. I was hoping he could come and rescue me. No energy. My body felt
like Jelly. He came and tried to get me onto the board and no luck. He can’t
swim with a person who is nearly 200 pounds. He gave up too.
Out of nowhere, lifeguards came by on a water craft. I was
asked to hold the grip firmly. I was moved to the shore in less than a
minute. Thanks to La jolla lifeguards and
No thanks to the instructor who was flirting with that girl.
I was terrified to death and I've never felt so helpless
before in my life. After that, if I look at any surfing picture or any video,
it made my stomach uneasy and my knees knock.
I did not go near water and did not even drink alcohol until
several months after that incident.
I have learned 3 lessons for life.
1.
Do not Drink if you have a planned physical activity
the next day
2.
Even if you drink, Drink lots of water and eat
your breakfast before doing any activity.
3.
Do not take surfing lessons from a young and
inexperienced instructor and that to with a girl. Chance of getting her number
is almost zero and a chance of being rescued by life guards by is very high.
I would like to conclude today’s speech with a quote from Charlie Chaplin “My pain may be the reason for somebody's laugh. But my laugh must never be the reason for somebody's pain.”
